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2008 Australian Tour
In Victoria
February 14 - March 2, 2008
A bit windy today
A bit windy today

Wednesday, February 27 -- Today we cycled from Tidal River on Wilsons Prom to Inverlock.

For some reason this stretch was a bit of a slog. In a way I felt like I was finished when I reached Wilsons Prom. But we had to get back as well.

The first bit of the ride is quite scenic, like it was when we came into the park ... but it is very hilly. There are lots of different types of trees, and views of the mountains, meadows, and especially the views of the ocean.

30 kms later we were out of the park, and into the rolling hills, and cattle properties.

We stopped in Yanakie for lunch, cold spaghetti from a tin, potato chips, and fruit salad. Then we continued on down toward Walkerville, but not quite all the way there, there's a cut-off road that takes you across the Cape Liptrap penninsula, and then up toward Tarwin Lower. But that road is a bit of a slog ... and I had to walk one steep bit when my legs decided they had enough just then. There are some lovely views of the ocean on the one side and the fields on the other, but you just keep gradually climbing and climbing. We also had a cross wind, coming from the ocean side, and it was heavily overcast and gloomy.

I think I had been struggling with my breathing right from when we started the day, but by the time I reached this area, I felt horrible, and was really fighting to get enough air to make it up the hills.

We stopped at an intersection and I felt like a steam engine with the way I was wheezing. I used my inhalers, and a short time later, I started breathing more quietly, and felt much better. That was the only bit of excitement in that stretch.

We stopped at Tarwin Lower to eat a bit (chips and coke) and couldn't help noticing the black water in the toilets and the notices about not drinking the water ... no worries there!

A car pulled into the little park where we were eating, and the driver got out and asked us several questions about our trip. When we said we were going to Inverlock, he made the comment that it was a good choice and then said there was one hill on the way. From my experience, any comments like that deom a motorist need to be doubled or tripled. In other words, if they say, "It's 5 kms up the road", in reality, it is 10 to 15 kms up the road. If they say there is one hill, there will be 2 or 3 hills. And in this case, from my way of counting hills, there were 3 of them, although one was a bit smaller than the other two.

Just as we were coming into Tarwin Lower, and on the way to Inverloch, the temperature had dropped, and the wind had increased ... just to add to the challenges of the last bit of the journey today.

Rowan requested a "cabin" at the local caampsite when we got into Inverloch. A "cabin" is a very small mobile home. In some campgrounds it can be a camper or RV (also known as a caravan), in others is is a somewhat more permanant structure like a miniature mobile home ... like this one. It was great! I could easily have lived there. It had a living room/kitchen/dining room, a larger bedroom, a smaller bedroom, and a small bathroom. I've never seen anything like it.

We cycled to the grocery store where we got a few items before being kicked out of the store, and then picked up piza for supper. So there's an idea for a theme tour ... gourmet pizza! I had a very spicy mexican pizza which was very good, but perhaps just a bit too spicy, as I discovered the next morning. I also lost a tooth, or part of a tooth, while eating that pizza ... not the fault of the pizza though, my teeth are slowly but steadily falling apart. But does it ever feel weird.

We were very glad we were in the cabin that night ... it rained and howled all evening.

Frankston
Frankston
Black Cockatoos
Black Cockatoos
Stony Point
Stony Point

Thursday, February 28 -- We were up bright and early because we had a ferry to catch ... but the ferry was about 55 kms away.

I felt slow and slugglish on the bicycle for the first hour or two. I just didn't feel comfortable, and couldn't get any speed up, but then I gradually started feeling better. Rowan says that we were doing a lot of long gradual climbs on the way to San Remo, which might explain why it seemed more difficult.

We stopped at picnic area and lookout where we had stopped a few days earlier ... the grey ocean looked angry today. It crashed against the cliffs, sending spray everywhere, and there were whitecaps on the crests.

We continued on our way to San Remo, over the big bridge onto Phillip Island, and over to Cowes. When I rode this section in 2004, I wrote in my journal that it was flat. Today, for some reason, it did not seem flat. Interesting the different perspectives a person can have about an area.

For the benefit of other cycletourists who ride with someone, I also want to mention something I have noticed about hills and coasting. I usually ride behind, occasionally I lead the way for a while, but more often than not, I end up being passed ... and that is OK with me. When we climb a hill, I'm usually the slower climber ... and that is OK with me too ... for now. You never know - one day I may surprise everyone with my climbing skills!! :) :)

But here is the situation ... if both of us arrive at the top of the hill at approximately the same time, and we begin the descent more or less together, with me on the wheel of the rider in front, I end up on the brakes all the way down the hill to keep from running into the rider in front. Machak seems to roll well, especially when he is loaded, and loaded touring bicycles create quite a draft! I can feel it when I get into the draft of the rider in front ... all of a sudden I accelerate dramatically! Knowing this, I get into the habit, when I'm touring, of slowing and braking when I reach the top of a hill to create distance between the rider in front and myself, rather than powering over a hill. I'm not sure what else to do.

One additional note ... for me, this only applies to straight hills. Throw a curve or two into the hill, and I'm on the brakes anyway, and the rider in front disappears in the distance.

We were pushing to reach Cowes by 12:40 pm to catch the ferry, and we rolled into Cowes with about an hour to spare. So we picked up lunch from the local grocery store and ate it on the beach near the dock. It was chilly there, but the beach area is beautiful. Then we loaded the bicycles on to the ferry, on the roof this time because of the tides, and crossed to French Island and back to Stony Point. When we disembarked from the ferry, the train was there waiting for us.

Once we got into Melbourne, we made a quick stop at the Richmond Station to pay a little visit to Abbotsford Cycles, and then we continued on our way to Lilydale ... the end of the line.

At Lilydale we picked up a few things from the grocery store and then began the task of cycling back toward Healesville. Things did not go well at first. We crossed a very busy road, and then started to cycle up it. Almost immediately I was squeezed off the road by several large busses, and I had to stop and get off my bicycle in order to negotiate a bit of curb sticking out into the road. Seeing this, Rowan decided to take a different route out of town which might be less busy. However, although he knew about the route, he wasn't exactly sure how to get there from where we were.

Lilydale is very hilly! We cycled up and down and up and down and up and down trying to figure out how to get out of Lilydale. Much more of that, and my hill climbing skills would have had to start improving! However, we eventually did find ourselves out of town and on the road we were looking for. But the hills didn't stop there. That whole area is hilly.

We rolled into Yarra Glen, picked up a few things in town, and then backtracked to a road we had spotted which looked like it might lead to a potential camping spot. The road was completely closed off to traffic, allowing only hikers and cyclists in, and once on the road, we discovered paths off to the left. The only deterrent to using the area were several signs indicating the presence of snakes. So we found a likely-looking place, in a billabong, next to a little foot bridge ... in the snake pit!

Incidentally, while Billabong is a name brand for all sorts of things from ice cream to sweatshirts, a billabong is essentially an oxbow lake, which is often dry or contains stagnant water. In our case, the billabong was completely dry.

Rowan used the bridge as a counter on which to cook supper ... very handy.

The temperature dropped that night, down near freezing, and I ate supper wrapped in one of my sleeping bags. It was also the first night on the tour where I slept inside a sleeping bag. I slept well, but dreamed of snakes.

Friday, February 29 -- We had a lazy morning having breakfast and packing up. We had to be in Healesville late in the afternoon, and it was only about 20 kms away, so there was no rush. Eventually though, we set off.

And we didn't see any snakes the whole time we were there.

We cycled to the end of the closed off road, and noticed that the police were doing a checkstop. One police officer was talking to someone in a car, so the other one came over to us and stopped us. "Oh-oh", I thought, "Maybe someone reported that we were camping in the billabong and we're in trouble."

But the police officer just asked us some questions about where we were from, what we were doing, and where had been on our tour ... the usual questions we get asked when we tour. He told us that he cycled in the Wilson's Prom area too, and then asked us some questions about our equipment and setup. We chatted a bit, and then went on our way.

The road to Healesville is hilly. The whole area around there is hilly! But it was interesting because it is wine country. Vineyards lined the hillsides. I stopped and took several photos. A short time after I stopped to take photos, we rounded a corner and came upon a sign warning people that from that point on, the removal or possession of grapes and grape material was strictly prohibited. They are very protective of their grapes and vineyards.

Then we rolled into Healesville. Healesville is a bit of a tourist town catering to people from the city (Melbourne) who want to get out into the country, and who want to tour the wineries. http://www.travelvictoria.com.au/healesville/ We had lunch there, and wandered the streets looking at the various shops, had some sorbet, and then laid down next to a small creek passable only by large stepping stones. These stepping stones proved to be a source of amusement for us as we watched the people cross them ... some did so easily, some not so easily.

We were finally able to pick up the rental car late in the afternoon, loaded our bicycles into it, and headed back toward Taggerty. The car was a Mitsubishi Magna and we were able to get both bicycles in, although Rowan's bicycle was sticking out the back. I suspect if we had put Machak in the trunk (boot), he might have fit. But by the time we thought of that, he was already in the backseat, and we went with what we had.

We stopped at the Maroondah Reservoir and took a few photos. It's beautiful up there! Then we stopped at Fernshaw where I took some photos of manferns. And then we drove through Marysville, and back to Rowan's place. For supper that night, we had another massive hamburger each from Buxton Burgers ... supposed to be the best Australian hamburgers in the world.

Saturday, March 1 -- Since we still had the rental car, today we decided to explore the area around Rowan's place, scouting out roads he had never been on to see what they were like and what was there. Sometimes it is very handy to have a vehicle to check things out.

First, we drove up Acheron Way. We knew that road was quieter than Maroondah Highway, and might be an option to get from Healesville to where Rowan lives without being run off the road by logging trucks, but we also knew it had a section of gravel. What we didn't know was how long and how bad the section of gravel might be. As it turned out, the section of gravel wasn't too bad. I wouldn't want to ride it with a road bicycle, but it might be doable on a mtn bike.

And it would be worth it! The views from up there were incredible.

We climbed up Mt Donna Buang in the Yarra Ranges National Park to see what was up there. That was quite a climb! On the way up, we drove past a couple of cyclist doing the climb. We stopped at one point to take a photo and one of the cyclists went past. Rowan asked him how it was going, and he responded that it was going well ... and didn't even seem out of breath!

At the top, there was a tall structure to help us take in the view. We climbed to the top, and the view was magnificent! We took several photos.

When we got down, the first cyclist was there and we chatted with him a bit. Then the second one came up, and asked us to take a photo of the two of them. They had both completed the ?? a couple weeks ago ... so they were experienced climbers. If I had hills like that around the area where I live, my climbing skills might improve dramatically!

We went back down the hill and took a stroll around a little rainforest at the Mt Donna Buang turnoff where I got lots of photos of manferns and jungle scenery. It was lovely.

We continued on into Warburton, another sort of touristy little town. We were hungry, and curious about the town, so we parked the car and walked down the main street. A couple blocks down we found a little pie shop in a converted gas station where we each had meat pies and fruit turnovers. Very good! They'd make great cyclist food on a ride, and in fact, the town was full of cyclists, several of whom stopped at this little shop.

Our next stop was Lilydale where we checked out a bicycle shop, but it did not have what Rowan needed. So we returned through Warburton to go to the Upper Yarra Dam and had a look around there. There was an interesting-looking campsite at the dam, which might be a possibility for a short tour. A large part of the dam area was taken up with a wedding ... it was a beautiful spot for that.

Then we travelled the long way to Marysville via Cambarville, and then visited Steavensons Falls just outside Marysville. The falls were gorgeous. In fact, the whole area through there is just beautiful ... I can see why it tends to be a touristy area.

When we got back, there was an email from my father ... I have a nephew, born February 29, 2008. A leap-year baby!! :)

Then, unfortunately, I had to pack everything up. The journey was coming to an end.

Sunday, March 2 -- We were up about 4 am to begin the drive to Melbourne Airport. I'm not sure why, but I was not well at all during the first part of that trip. I haven't been carsick since I was a child, but was on this trip. Maybe it was the stress of the upcoming flight, and having to leave Australia and Rowan combined with my balance issues triggered by fast driving on curvy roads in the dark.

Virgin Blue was great ... there was no charge for my bicycle, and they even went out of their way to supply me with tape for my bicycle box. I have always had good experiences flying with Virgin Blue. They even let Rowan into the waiting area to see me off. And eventually, off I went. I really do hate that part.

The flight was uneventful, and in Sydney, I was able to catch the shuttle bus from the Domestic Terminal to the International Terminal just as it was pulling out. Good timing! The driver was really nice and dropped me and another girl off in the Arrivals area because he told us that the trolleys were free there, but we'd have to pay for them in Departures. I waited with all our stuff while the other girl went and grabbed two trolleys. It's nice to hook up with people like that when you're travelling alone.

I wanted to check in, but the counters weren't open, so I walked around the airport, then went outside for some fresh air. Fresh air is not to be found right outside an airport terminal! That's where all the smokers go! I was driven back inside by the smell of stale and fresh cigarette smoke. Finally the counters opened up and I got into line. Now, trolleys tend to be a little bit like shopping carts with one wheel that goes sideways and things like that. I had a trolley which would not turn easily, and absolutely would not go into reverse. Everytime I tried, it would lock up. Try to negotiate those switchback waiting lines with a trolley that doesn't turn at all well, and doesn't go into reverse! It was a bit of a challenge, but fortunately some of the people in line helped me out a bit.

When I got to the counter, my bicycle box was taken from me to the X-ray machines, and then the check-in process continued. When my bicycle box was returned to me, the guy who took it announced to the agent, "It's a bicycle!" Being charged for my bicycle at the Sydney airport is a little bit of a process. After they take your box and determine it is a bicycle for sure, they then send you clear down to the other end of the Departures terminal to a little customer service desk where you pay for the bicycle and get a receipt. Then you go all the way back to the check-in counter, show the receipt to the agent, who then gives you your boarding pass. And then I was directed to drop it off at the oversized luggage counter located relatively nearby.

Freed of my checked luggage, I was able to do a few other things while I waited. I had something to eat, and I went shopping. I had bought my niece a koala for when she was born, and now that I had a new nephew, born on leap year, I thought a kangaroo would be an appropriate choice. I got a cute one. :)

My flight back to Canada seemed long, very long, much longer than my flight to Australia, but then, I didn't sleep as much as I did on my way over. I thought for a few minutes when I got on the plane, that I'd have the whole row to myself, but then a band of some sort (like a rock band) dashed onto the plane. One of them sat in the aisle seat. At first I thought we were in for a noisy trip, but they all fell asleep. Then I thought I'd at least have the seat next to me to spread out into, but then a woman was moved into that seat because her entertainment system wasn't working. The way she banged the one in that seat, I had my suspicions why it wasn't working! So I had to confine myself to my own seat. I ended up watching a few movies, doing some Sudokus and trying to sleep.

We landed in Vancouver and went through customs uneventfully. I collected my duffel bag, and then waited for Machak to appear. And waited, and waited ... and checked my watch ... and noticed that I had about 30 minutes to catch my flight ... and waited. I inquired at an information desk what I should do, and was told that I had to wait for my box, and hopefully they could get me on the next flight. And I waited. With 10 minutes to go, Machak appeared. I rushed him through the line, but was informed that I was too late for my flight which would be closing the doors in about 9 minutes. Because Machak was oversized, I would have to drop him off at the other end of the terminal and head down a different wing to get to my gate ... there was no way I would make it. I was given a Standby notice for the next flight.

I strolled across the terminal to drop Machak off, and then strolled to my gate where I was informed that I would know for sure one way or the other in about an hour if I was going to be allowed on the flight. An hour later, I was allowed on! About 4 or 5 of us were allowed on, but some weren't ... and their flight didn't go for another 10 hours! I was very relieved that they let me on.

My flight to Edmonton was also uneventful, but I thought it was amusing overhearing the people sitting beside me talking about flying for 5 or 6 hours before this flight ... I'd been on the road over 24 hours by that point! When I arrived in Edmonton I wasn't sure if my luggage would be there. The last I saw of my duffel bag and bicycle box (dropped off in two separate locations) they had Standby stickers on them, and when my flight was confirmed, I hadn't laid eyes on them for over an hour. But ... they both made it!

My father picked me and took me back to Red Deer ... and my trip was over! The next day, Monday morning, real life would begin again as I drove back into Edmonton for University.

More store and photos on the way ... I've got heaps of photos coming!


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